Crate Training Magic

Have you ever noticed that many dogs choose to sleep under something like a table or curl up in a ball with their shoulder bolstered into a corner? Dogs are, by nature, den animals. Crates can be an excellent way to provide a den for your dog – a safe, quiet place to “turn off” and have a break from light, sound, and stimuli.

A crate is also an excellent tool, allowing us to place our dog in a safe place, when we cannot supervise him with the kids, or need to leave the front door open to bring in bags of groceries, or for a whole host of other reasons. When we have a crate available, one that our dog is willing to go in and comfortably hang out, we can ask our dog to do so anytime we need to know that he’s tucked safely away, protecting him and others.

Because a crate is an artificial den, it may take some training to help your dog recognize it as a safe, comfortable place to seek refuge.

Choosing a Crate

Remember that first and foremost the crate, as a den, should not be an expansive space, but should be large enough for your dog to stand up, turn around, and lay in comfortably. There are many different kinds of dog crates:

Hard Plastic/Airline Crate – Best for dogs with separation anxiety or escape tendencies.

A hard plastic/airline crate is the safest bet for most any dogs. Not only does this provide the most authentic den experience, it has proven to be challenging to escape from and is least likely to injure your dog if he panics and tries to escape. These hard plastic/airline crates come with either two finger-squeeze latches or a dial latch – both are very secure, however the dial latch is recommended for the determined escape artist.

Wire Crate

Not recommended for dogs with separation anxiety or strong escape tendencies, but works well for house/potty training. A wire crate also works well for a dog who may need to be crated when visitors come over so that the visitors can toss treats easily to the dog. Wire crates provide the option for the dog to feel more a part of the family since he can more easily see what is going on around him plus you have the option to hang a blanket over it, if needed, to provide more seclusion.

Soft Crate

Not recommended for use with puppies, chewers, dogs with separation anxiety, or those with a tendency to escape. Soft crates are ideal for adult dogs who are already crate trained and are great for travel in the car, at the hotel, or camping trips.

Children and Dog Crates

It is natural for children to want to enter the crate – after all, it looks like a fun “fort” to play in or snuggle up with the dog. However, it is important to teach your children that the crate is the dog’s room and is off-limits to everyone else. If the dog is in the crate, whether or not the gate is closed, then the dog is asking for private time and should be left alone. Ensuring that your dog always has his safe place in which to take refuge will benefit everyone in the household.

Where to Place the Crate

The crate should be located in a quiet, well-ventilated, low-traffic part of the home. A bedroom or in a corner in the family room are good places to consider – think about a place where you would want to unwind at the end of a hectic day.

If your dog will be crated for bedtime, consider keeping the crate in your bedroom. Dogs are social animals and they like to “den up” with their people, offering a good night’s sleep for all.

If the crate will be used to safely place a fearful dog when visitors come to the house, place the crate in a corner, out of the way of foot traffic but where she can see visitors to the home. Keep a jar of treats near the crate so that, when the doorbell rings, you can grab a treat and toss it in the crate so that the dog gets a “positive” while you leave to answer the door, keeping everyone safe.

Introducing the Crate

Ideally, all dogs would be introduced to the crate as young puppies, but the principles are fundamentally the same when introducing the crate to any dog, regardless of age or previous experiences. However, remember that there is no magic wand to training of any kind. All dogs are individuals and respond differently.

1. Begin by feeding all meals in the crate with the door propped open. Measure out the amount of food your dog is fed each day and spread it out over several scheduled meals (2- 4) throughout the day. Put the food dish towards the back of the crate so that your dog must walk all the way in by himself to eat the meal – remember to leave the door open, even if it means propping the door open so it doesn’t accidentally close thereby frightening your dog. Then walk away. If you stand nearby then your dog may be worried that you will “force” him in the crate. If your dog has a strong aversion to the crate and chooses to ignore the meal to avoid going in the crate, add a little something extra yummy to the meal and leave the food in there for 30 minutes, giving the dog plenty of time to make up his mind. If he chooses not to enter the crate to eat during the 30 minutes, then remove food and do not feed the dog until the next scheduled feeding. Don’t worry about him missing a few meals – he will eat when he is hungry.

• If your dog is comfortable going into the crate to eat his meals, you may also periodically toss a few treats or toys into the crate throughout the day, allowing him to go in and out freely. This will teach him that the crate is a pretty cool place!

2. Once your dog is comfortable coming and going from the crate with the door left open (this could be in a matter of 1 -2 days, or weeks for some dogs), you may begin to calmly and nonchalantly close the door while he is inside for short periods of time at first – just a few moments with the door closed, but not latched, working up to several minutes with it latched (it is important that your dog is accustomed to the odd sound of the latch opening and closing). Toss treats through the openings in the BACK (not through the door) of the crate if your dog is calm and relaxed. If your dog becomes anxious, wait for him to settle, then toss a treat in the back and open the door. Teach him that being calm in the crate is the only way to get the door to open. You might even sit on the floor next to the crate and read a book just to help him acclimate to being in the crate while still being next to you. 

3. Before leaving your dog crated while you are away from home, start by leaving him crated while you are home and nearby – while doing laundry or watching TV – for minutes at a time. Eventually, graduate to going outside for short periods of time (just half a minute or less at first). At this point in training, especially if your dog suffers from separation anxiety, it is all about trust – do not assume that because your dog is okay in the crate while you grab the mail he will also be okay while you go grocery shopping – work up to this by being outside of the house, but in a place where you can “spy” on your dog for gradually increasing amounts of time. 

4. Provide mental enrichment, such as a stuffed frozen Kong toy, which can keep him occupied for hours. Consider providing his meals in Kongs, and not in a bowl, on days when he has to be crated. Below are some tips for stuffing a Kong so that meals can last as long as possible. If your dog is a powerful chewer, supervise your dog with any toy before leaving him with it unattended. 

It is never recommended to leave your dog in a crate for more than 5 hours at a time. If your dog sleeps in his crate overnight, it is ok to reach 8-9 hours.

Dogs are pack animals so, naturally, they prefer to be with their family (or pack). Some dogs need more help than others when it comes to feeling comfortable when alone. Need help? We are here for you.

KONG* Stuffing Tips 

1. In your dog’s food bowl, mix your dog’s kibble plus several spoonfuls of canned dog food and create a mash.

2. Stuff into the kong, all the way to the top, packing in tight.

3. For something fun, add a layer of an extra yummy like bits of cooked chicken, cooked lean ground beef, canned pumpkin, or plain yogurt. You can even add dog friendly vegetables such as cooked green beans, cooked sweet potato and carrots.

4. “Seal” the top with peanut butter.

5. Freeze overnight. 

It’s a good idea to have 2-3 prepared KONGS in the freezer ready to go. 

Ready? Set. Go!

*Be sure to select a Kong appropriate for his size. In other words, no Kong that he can get to his throat. The black Kongs are the best for strong chewers.